For the Record

Many people have asked us, “If you two are traveling together and this  blog is for the BOTH of you, then why is Kevin the only one who does any of the blog work?”

Well, that’s simply not true.  I actually only write the posts themselves and because it records what post is written by who it merely appears that I’m doing all the work.  David, however, actually does quite a bit more.  He created the blog, the design, nailed down the url and came up with all the ideas for the little gadgets like the map, the itinerary page, etc.  He organizes and uploads all the photos, which takes hours on the slow connections here, and most of the photos themselves are actually taken by him (I find carrying a camera simply annoying, and he takes better shots anyway).  Plus, all the techy stuff is all him – like the ability for you to log in and leave comments on my posts, he took care of that and made it happen.  I would have no idea how to even begin to get something like that started.

The point being – without David I would have a bunch of words going out in a boring email, and without me he would have a beautiful blog with pictures but no other content.  It’s a mutual effort,  one we enjoy.

Much Love,

Kevin and David

nicks, cuts, bumps and bruses – What’s in our medi kit and an Injury report

I initially thought that 30 band-aids would be enough for any travel medical kit.  After a week and a half in Thailand, and several  ”I told you soes” later (thanks to Kevin), my  thoughts have changed.

I strongly recommend a bulk band aid kit from Costco with no fewer than 150 band aids for any trip to south east asia lasting longer than two weeks. We both have sustained cuts, scrapes, blisters, scratched-raw mosquito bites, and more. Aside from using an obscene amount of band-aids in such a short time, Kevin has a habit of hitting is head everywhere! Asian people are short. Kevin is tall. If you are over 5′7”, watch out!

Items in our travel kit we have used:

  • Band-aids
  • Antiseptic towelettes and/or Hydrogen peroxide
  • Antibiotic ointment/cream
  • Tons of Ibuprofen
  • Tweezers
  • Lidocane + Aloe Vera
  • Tiger Balm
  • DEET
  • Sunscreen
  • Pepto (and not enough of it)

Things we have in addition:

  • Epi-pens
  • Tylenol cold/flu
  • Anti-histamines
  • Claritin
  • Gauze of many sizes and shapes
  • Medical tape
  • Safety pins
  • Sutures/syringes/ sterile needles / IV catheters
  • and much, much more (this may be the heaviest thing next to the tent itself in either of our packs)

Injury Report:

Kevin:

  • Several gashes on his feet – swimming during low tide.  Coral rocks hurt!
  • Micro cuts on hands and feet – don’t try to hold on to the rocks.
  • Blisters on feet – From wet shoes and low cut socks
  • Bumps to the head – On buses, bathroom door frames, random hanging pieces of metal, street signs, vendor carts.
  • Busted knuckle/gashed fingers – Taking his shirt off too close to the ceiling fan. It was an all metal fan spinning at mach 7. He fell straight to the floor! My heart dropped! I thought his hand was cut cleanly off!
  • Several moderate stomach aches

David:

  • Micro cuts on hands and feet – from the rocks
  • Flip-flop blisters – don’t carry packs and wear flip-flops for long distances.
  • Blisters on hands – hand washing and drying clothes.  The detergent is really caustic and makes your skin mushy. Maybe what i purchased wasn’t detergent. After all, I don’t know how to read Thai.
  • Scratched bloody mosquito bites. *I’m a scratcher*
  • Two day long stomach illness – from something bad I ate.

Hill Tribe Trekking, Chang Mai Province

In Northern Thailand, especially the Chang Mai Province, it’s a really popular activity for western tourists to hire a guide and trek through the mountainous regions to visit Hill Tribes.  We booked our trek the day after we arrived in Chang Mai and then left a day after.  Everyone and their brother offers hill tribe trekking, so we decided to talk with some locals and learn more first before forking over a few thousand Baht.  We are glad we did.
We woke up nice and early, packed our bags, and waited for our tour guide to pick us up.  When he did we met our fellow travellers:  3 French men who were relatively kind and totally strange, but they really brought something to the group. 2 Canadians who were a young cute couple, Marco and Laura.  They were extremely kind and really enjoyed sharing stories of travel and their lives back home.  They loved to talk, and we loved to listen.  And then there was Alaster (I’m sure I’m spelling that wrong) and Nathan from Leeds, England.  No offense to the rest of the group, but we fell in love with these two straight away.  They were really down to Earth, didn’t take themselves too seriously (which can be a real problem with backpackers around here), and they were absolutely hysterical.  We have had some rough run ins with a couple Englishmen already so it was refreshing to meet these guys.
The brits - Nathan and Alastair Laura and Marco the french men Our guide Off
We all piled in to the truck and set off on an hour and a half drive to mountains where we were met by a bunch of elephants who took us on a ride through the jungle.  Unfortunately this was the one bad part about the trip.  The trainers were just terrible to the elephants, really beating them up quite a bit.  We were all really uncomfortable with it and couldn’t wait for the elephant ride to be over.  All of us talked about how we try to be careful about where we put our money here and we were all disappointed that we were supporting the abuse.  Not that an elephant ride through the Thai jungle isn’t wonderful, but not at the expense of the endangered animals.  Fortunately, it only lasted 20 minutes or so and we began our hike.
Our elephant trek View on the trek The french had a hungry elephant that only moved for bananas The elepants were powerful, scaling intense grades
The first day was one of the most intense hikes I think I have ever been on.  The Thai jungle is HOT and we climbed thousands of meters out of the valley to get to the first village.  Our guide was wonderful.  He took care of us but also pushed us hard as it was important to reach the village before sun down – “NO CRY, FASTER, NO CRY!”  The views when we got to the top, though, were a true reward, and the challenge of the climb gave our group a real opportunity to bond.  Along the way, too, we were able to cool off under some waterfalls and swim a bit.
  in the hills
The location of the village was spectacular.  It was built right on the side of this mountain overlooking the entire valley which we had just climbed out of.  We all just sort of sat there and took it in, speechless.  After a COLD shower (a pipe in a shack) we wandered in to the village.  I would say a couple hundred people lived there, not much more.  We weren’t disappointed, but at the same time there wasn’t a whole lot to see.  Some people were in traditional dress but not many.  We all felt like we were visiting a small village in the hills more than a ‘tribal’ village.  According to our guide their lifestyle has really changed since the arrival of the backpackers.  They aren’t so much a traditional agricultural economy anymore as they rely most heavily on the tourism.  Still, we were greeted warmly and had a wonderful time drinking rice whisky with the men (and boy did they love that whisky).
Another hill tribe across the valley They love the whiskey Posing for the camera
After dark it was back to our hut for a couple kinds of curry and rice whipped up over a fire by our guide.  Aloy (delicious)!  We couldn’t believe something so amazing could be thrown together over a fire like that.  He did an excellent job.  We played cards under the moonlight for a bit, teaching each other different games, and then headed off to our bamboo mats under mosquito nets for some much needed rest.
Sleeping area Food we ate on the trek Laura and Marco
The next day was a much more enjoyable hike.  It mostly followed a river downhill through lush forests under bamboo canopies.  We swam under every waterfall we could find and just ate it up.  It was nice being in a group who appreciated nature as much as we do.  We all took the time really stop here and there and appreciate our surroundings.
That night we came to our next hut perched on the side of the river just below another waterfall.  This wasn’t a village really, just a couple huts, but I would say we enjoyed it even more.  We met some more villagers along the way as well.  We played a lot with the kids, and they taught us how to use sling shots for hunting (of course for us we were just using bottles as targets, of which we just couldn’t hit).  Alaster took the cake as he hit the bottles half a dozen times.  We were all jealous, but not too bad considering he was still terrible at cards.
Alastair and the slingshot Villager making an egg catching basket  Waterfall Kids at waterfall hut
Hut at the waterfall We jumped off that cliff Bryan! Marco and Laura at the waterfall
We all sat next to the river that night drinking too many beers (we made our guide’s record for trekker/beer ratio), feeding the camp fire, and talking with each other through translation (tribal language to thai, thai to english, english to french, and all back again).  Simply amazing. Another wonderful night.
The next morning we followed the river farther down to where it widened and rafts were waiting for us.  Here the white water rafting began.  Again, an incredible time.  It was level two so it wasn’t too scary, but it definitely got your blood pumping a bit.  Our guide was great at steering, and we put a lot of effort in to paddling.  After that the river calmed down and we switched to bamboo rafts.  Nathan steered us (I tried but we almost hit rocks and drowned) as it had evidently been some sort of life long dream of his to run a bamboo raft down a river.  Congratualtions, Nathan, another dream checked off your little English list.
We wrapped up then, tired and happy, and our guide drove us back down the mountain in to Chang Mai.  As I reread this I feel my words are so inadequate in describing what we experienced.  But, I suppose sometimes we have to be satisfied with knowing some of our experiences just can’t be shared with words or even photos.  How do I describe how it felt watching David share an oreo with tribal village boy (he was so nervous but grateful for that oreo)?  How do we explain what it felt like to sit on a bamboo mat under the full moon, smelling the curries cooking over the fire, looking out over the valley and just drinking in the quiet?  I just can’t, but hopefully as time goes on I’ll get closer and closer.
Enjoy the photos, we certainly enjoyed taking them.
Hilltribe trekking

The Trains of Thailand

The Trains of ThailandWe arrived at the train station in Ayutthaya around 10:30 pm on October 25th, plenty of time to catch our 11:30 train north to Chang Mai.  We purchased our tickets the day before and chose to spend a bit more to get a second class sleeper car figuring we would want the rest on a 12 hour ride.
The train didn’t arrive until 3 am, which evidently is a completely common occurance here.  We sat there in the ‘train station,’ which was really a few benches next to the track and a small building where you buy tickets, for 4 1/2 hours getting eaten alive by the mosquitos.  Total misery, but somehow we held it together ok and stayed reasonably positive.
Then it got worse.  We borded the train, found our sleeping car, and the adventure began.  To start with, I couldn’t fully lay down on my ‘bed’ because Asians are SO SMALL.  It was hot as hell, the other backpackers smelled so bad (not to be mean to the French, but for God’s sake use a little deoderant, yea?)  and no train in the world could have possibly been louder than this train.  The windows had to be wide open because it was so hot but that caused the nerve shattering noise from the tracks to just consume everything.  The trains themselves are so crappy they barely push 20 mph so the entire trip was frustratingly slow.
David's sleeping berth Kevin in sleeping berth  attempting to sleep
After we ’slept’ for a bit and the sun came up we got a bit of coffee in us and started feeling better.  But then the flood began.  We noticed water coming in to the car and discovered a pipe had burst near the toilet.  I went and found one of the workers in the diner car and told him what was happening (speaking in short sentences works best when communicating):
Me:  Sawadeeka (hello), water come in car, broke, help.
Him:  Wha?
Me: Flood, water, come look, help.
Him:  Wha?
Me: Flood, wet, water, need help.
Him:  Es Ok, you no problem, forget.
Me:  What?
Him:  Es Ok, you forget, sleep.
Me:  No no no, you must come see, bad bad bad, help
Him:  You forget now, sleep, Es Ok
This went on about 5 minutes before he finally did indeed come see.  He turned a knob somewhere and shut the water off and everything was cool.  The amazing thing was this was about the 3rd or 4th thing we were experiencing that completely blew our minds, while for them it seemed like a totally common occurance.
The flood The flood continues
The rest of the train trip was pretty much just as brutal.  Hot, stinky, more hot, more stinky, and now we had no water in the car.  Then I (Kevin) got a bit sick from the last meal I had in Ayutthaya, so that certainly didn’t help.  Not to mention the toilet wasn’t much more than a hole in the floor, through which you could see the tracks below.  That’s right folks, the toilets on the trains just empty out on to the tracks.  I suppose we at least didn’t have to worry that the flood was coming from the toilet.
SIGH.
One thing I CAN’T complain about, though, was scenery.  Riding a train out of the Southern flats and in to the Northern mountains was simply stunning, and many of things we saw you would really miss on the highway.
We arrived in Chang Mai around 6 pm on the 26th, a mere six hours late after what ended up being about a 17 hour trip.  Our flight from SFO to Hong Kong was actually shorter if you can believe it.
Our first stop was the nearest bar,  and my God did that ice cold Chang Beer taste beautiful…
Beautiful scenery on the train Southern flats
Lesson learned:
1, Take the Bus
Take a look at the “Trains of Thailand” photo set:
Train ride from Ayuttahyah to Chiang Mai

Amazing Thai Food (For Courtney)

The other day we received a lovely little comment from our dear friend Courtney asking us for more pictures of FOOD. So, the last day or so we made sure to take a few extra pictures of the many different foods we are trying along with the food markets that seem to be on the corner of every street we pass.  Enjoy, Court!

We also encourage all of you, our dear readers, to let us know if you have special requests of pictures you would like to see or things you would like to learn (or, for that matter, things you would like to see LESS of as well).

The food here in Thailand can be summed up in one word:  SPICY.  Whether it be a simple fried rice, a complex chicken curry, or a hearty soup (which we have nearly every day for breakfast or lunch), it is full of SPICE SPICE SPICE.  If it’s NOT spicy enough for you, which is nearly impossible, there are usually two or three kinds of spices and peppers sitting on the table for you as condiments to add to your meal.

We generally don’t eat in actual restaurants because there is ’street’ food everywhere you go.  Think of it as little carts of food you would see in Golden Gate Park, or in Cleveland on the day of a Browns game, except more of full actual meals.  The cost is much less than restaurants, and from what we see and taste the food usually has fresher ingredients with a much better, and more complex, recipe.

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The most common food we come across is the soup.  Soup stands are pretty much everywhere you look here in Thailand, and most of them offer the same ingredients which are spread out for your choosing on the little cart.  Generally, three meats are offered:  Sliced pork and pork meat balls, chicken, and fish, which usually comes as a fish ball.  Sometimes if you are lucky you will come across beef but that, my friend, will cost you an extra ten baht.  The veggies are usually onion, corn, carrots, broccoli (or the asian equivalent like a bak choy), bamboo shoots (ALWAYS bamboo shoots), and one or two others that we haven’t yet quite figured out what they are.  There are usually 3 different kinds of noodles you can choose from.  Most of the time you will find things like basil and parsley in there as well, and and then a ton of peppercorn (still attached to the tiny branch).  Next to all of these different choices is a HUGE vat of simmering broth.  You pick your ingredients, kind of meat, and noodle, and it all gets placed in a big wire mesh ladle, which is then placed in to the vat of broth.  After just a few minutes everything is dumped in a bowl about the size of your head, some extra broth ladled on top, and then it’s covered with a sprinkle of sugar, pepper, crushed peanuts, crushed red pepper, lime, and a dash of fish sauce.  Though all of the soup stands offer the same ingredients, its the ’secret’ recipe of the broth that makes a certain soup cart stand out.  This will run you about 30 baht (just under 1 dollar).

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There are also tons of different kinds of fried rice, and I don’t think I need to explain what that is.  It’s the easier choice when we are tired and don’t want to figure out what is on the menu.  It usually costs about 20 baht, and I haven’t come across any I haven’t liked.

The curries here are absolutely unbelievable.  Curries in the States got NOTHIN’ on this curry.  It’s just not the same.  They are  the perfect combination of sweet and spicy (VERY spicy, actually) and you can get any kind of ingredients you can possibly imagine.  Double the size of the soup I wrote about above, with double the ingredients and double the complex flavors.  I won’t even try to explain what all is in them because it seems like every item of food you can find in Thailand somehow ends up in a bowl of curry.  Be careful, though, the spice really makes you sweat.  A big bowl of curry will run you between 40 – 80 baht depending on what you order, with seafood curries (absolutely killer in Si Racha!) being on the higher end. ( as this post has gone to print Kevin has found a new style of curry found only in Northern Thailand called Khao Sawy.  It was so delicious he will be writing an entire post solely dedicated to this ancient recipe – pictures soon).

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Most of the foods here you can find dried or flash fried.  Seems to be an easier way to keep food, and to consume it as well.  The difference is that most of the dried foods come whole.  For example, in Oakland you can get a bag of dried squid that is shredded up and packaged.  Here, though, for the most part you get the WHOLE squid handed to you in a bag, and then covered in salts, sugar and spices.  Same thing goes for dried pork skins – they are HUGE and come in a bag that cost about 5 baht.  We particularly like these.  There is also whole dried fish everywhere, which isn’t so much consumed as a snack but used to make the broths of the soup I was talking about above.  Dried fruits, nuts, meats, dried everything, everywhere, for very, very cheap. (sorry, but somehow I lost all these amazing pictures on the dried food.  the ones below are the ones left.  I’ll get more, promise)

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The different sweets here are really colorful, and really not all that sweet.  I’m assuming we think the deserts aren’t very sweet because they aren’t laden with corn syrup like back home.  Usually you find some sort of rice pudding, coconut, and the ocasional chocolate.  There is also a lot of tarot in various forms  sprinkled with sugar.  I’m not going to lie, as soon as I saw a Thai version of a dunkin’ donuts I was all in – I really miss my American sweets, but I’ll get used to it.

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A note on beer – We never thought about it but beer here is rather expensive by Thai standards, and we can only assume it’s because they import their wheat and hops (it’s certainly not grown here).  A can of beer at a store will run you 30 baht, a little under a dollar, which is pretty much what it costs at home.  We don’t drink it much at all because one can costs the same as a full meal, which is just not worth it.  When we find the strange Thai liquors we have heard so much about, we’ll let you know.

We haven’t yet ventured in to the ‘crazier’ foods just yet, but they are there and ready when we are ready – roasted grasshoppers, pig snout and tongue, various unidentifiable bugs, all kinds of raw fish that don’t appear nearly as comfortable as sushi.  We’ll get there, and we’ll let you know when.

The food markets are incredible.  The smells quickly change from nauseating to delectable and back again.  We tend to see one thing and think “gross” (which of course we NEVER say, you just smile and move along politely) and see the next thing and nearly yell HOW MUCH? I WANT THAT!  Here are few pictures of the markets, with many, many more food pictures to come to keep Courtney and the rest of you foodies satisfied.

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And congratulations, Courtney, for being our first friend whose name ended up in a blog post title…..Now go tell Lee and make him jealous!  YES YES YES!

Check out our “Foods of Thailand” flickr set:

Food of Thailand

Ayutthaya

off they go!
After a half day trip from Si Racha we arrived here in Ayutthya, the capital of the ancient Siamese Kingdom, about 1 1/2 hour North of Bangkok.  We were tired as hell, but this time we seemed to be a bit better about which bus to catch when, and we made sure to keep our bellies full on the way so it wasn’t as bad as Disaster House.  We weren’t particularly impressed when we first arrived.  It seemed like a small city with a few uninteresting streets, and none of the food was catching our eyes at first.  Plus the room at the U-Thong Hotel (pronounced oo-tong, named after some ancient King) was just so-so, but at 300 baht a night we couldn’t turn it down. -More on our experience at the U-Thong later.

Things changed once we found a cheap motorbike (200 baht for the day) and started finding our way around.  There are dozens of wats (Buddhist temples) scattered throughout the city from the 14th – 16th century that we spent the day exploring.  Most of them were free to wander throughout, and the ones with the majority of the buildings still standing cost a mere 50 baht (a little under 2 bucks).  The ruins were simply massive, towering above the city’s skyline.  Every one had some sort of moat surrounding in, usually connected to a massive lake, which in turn connects to the huge man-made canal (it’s referred to here as ‘the river’) that surrounds the entire city itself.  Water is central to Buddhist culture, and Ayutthaya is a prime example.

Aside from the actual wats, ruins are also scattered all throughout the city itself.  On the side of a the street next to an internet cafe, for example, you will see the bases of what used to be huge towers displaying the image of Buddha.  In people’s backyards there are giant chedis (a tower shaped like an upside down ice cream cone containing the remains of  princes and holy fathers) from the 14th century, and right next to brand new office buildings you can spot walls hundreds of years old surrounding mounds that used to be gathering places for royalty.  It’s all a really insane juxtaposition.

ruins

Sleeping next to Buddah In awe...

The nice thing about exploring this place is you can pretty much go anywhere.  There are no ropes keeping you out of the ancient crypts underneath wats where the various kings of Siam were interred, and theres nothing that says you can’t walk right up to ancient statues of mythical creatures and touch them with your own hands.  However, it’s also kind of sad.  Because there is little protecting these ruins as you would see in the States, everything is falling apart.  We couldn’t help but wonder, because of these lack of rules how long with these beautiful monuments to Ancient Siam be around for future generations to enjoy?  I suppose we tried to be thankful they are still here while we’re here, and left it at that.

While we were motorbiking around from wat to wat, we stumbled upon a non profit (www.elephantstay.com) that saves and retires working or sick elephants.  Evidently for hundreds, if not thousands, of years elephants were used to work much like horses and donkeys were used in the states. Long LONG ago they were also used on the Siamese battlefield.  Unfortunately, once the elephants become sick or too old to continue working, they are put down and their meat sold off.  The ElephantStay team aims to change this.  They buy old and sick elephants and bring them to this corral where they bathe them, give them the space to play and wander, and keep them occupied with simple little tasks (like gathering tree branches to feed each other) as many of them are used to working.  The entire place is a little village where the workers live full time, and the elephants simply wander happily all over the place taking turns being fed and hosed down. We got to feed them and David even gave one of the little ones a kiss (which I thought was gross, but whatever).  We did not ride them like you see in other parts of this area because it was obvious these elephants were not there for the tourists.  We did see a couple of those places with Western tourists spending exorbitant amounts of money to sit on sad, sick looking elephants all dolled up in some terrible jewelry with their trainers whipping them to do something ‘cute’.  Shame on them.

Back to the happy elephants:

Lia! I kissed this baby elepant on your behalf. Kevin feeding the elephant David wanted to eat the elepant treats Taking a stroll
Elephant making a new bed Elephant and his trainer Save these elephants!

Our favorite part, though, is two-fold.  On our last day here we decided to just sort of wander around the town neighborhoods while we wait for our train North.  We came upon a small bridge that spans the canal which surrounds the city and found about a dozen youngins jumping in to the river.  When they saw us taking pictures, they got so excited.  They showed us the back flips they can do, and all started jumping in at the same time.  Each time they would get ready to jump they looked to us to make sure we were ready to snap a photo, and off they went.  They then all would swim excitedly over to the shore and come racing back up to the bridge to see the pictures we took, which then would make them squeal and laugh and start the whole process over again.  None of them spoke English, but we were able to give them our website as they seemed to understand the word Internet (ALL the Thai kids hang out in internet cafes for hours!).  So, we played charades, and they are going to come to this site to check out their photos tonight.  We had a wonderful time with them, and them with us, and we felt so grateful when we said goodbye.  Leave it to the kids to make us feel welcome.

Jumping for the boating tourists Giving the kids our URL Local youth

The other half of this ‘favorite’ part was when we left the bridge, wandered around the corner to some random back alley, and came upon a Thai woman who spoke beautiful English.  She pulled up chairs in the shade, which we were thankful for, and asked us where we were from and where we were going.  Evidently she ran a guest house here in Ayutthaya for many years (she’s even featured in Lonely Planet, P.S. Guesthouse) until her husband passed away and it became too much work.  She had a small, beautiful home surrounded by other houses her extended family lives in. She was excited to show her home, and her TWO PET MONKEYS, which we promptly took photos of her feeding tea to.  She is considering reopening her guesthouse, which we nearly begged her to do, and she said if we come back we are welcome to stay with her anytime and enjoy a good home cooked meal.  I can’t say enough about this woman.  There was something about her kindness and warmth, and the way she seemed so concerned about whether we were comfortable and enjoying her homeland.  She spoke openly about her husband and his passing.  He was a good man, from Missouri actually, and they met when he came as a young guy to visit Thailand, much like us, and stayed in her guest house.  We can only hope she does indeed reopen that guesthouse, and what an honor it would be to stay there with her and enjoy a meal.  Thank you, Pon Pen, for your time and generosity.  You get that guest house up and running and we will send every able American we can find to come visit you, thats our promise.

Pon Pen and her monkey Laying in the sun Pon Pen and her guesthouse Monkey!

Lessons Learned:

1) Take the time to walk slower and really look around and you will see more and meet better people than any entrance fee to any museum or wat will ever get you.

2)  Keep yourself in a place of gratitude, and the rewards of travel will only grow.  It’s the Buddhist way, and maybe we will be lucky enough to make it our way, too.

3) When you’re 6ft 1 in, DUCK!  Yes I have put that on this blog twice, and for good reason…

Take a look at the Ayutthaya photos:

Ayutthaya

Ko Sichang and Bat Island

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Bliss…
After a 10 hour disaster house to get to the damn island, we were truly pleased.  We stayed at the Rim Talay resort and, at 550 -1000 Baht a night (about 16 – 32 bucks) it was really worth it.  The rooms (or really, these little tiny boat things that have been hauled up to shore) were clean and comfortable and, most importantly, in an excellent location.

The real gem, though, was the little restaurant in front of the resort called Pan and David’s.  I could go on out about the delicious food and the great service, but it was the people that made our stay really incredible.  Pan and David are the owners and they are the two most helpful people we have come in contact with so far.  They answered all of our questions, gave recommendations on where to rent a motorbike, the best place to exchange money, what street food to eat and what to avoid, where else to visit in Thailand, and they even helped us plan a camping trip to a nearby, smaller Island, called Bat.  Pan (David’s Wife) literally acted like our surrogate mother.  David (my David, not hers) got a bit of a stomach ache on the second day there and Pan spent 10 minutes grilling me to ensure I was properly taking care of him.  So incredibly sweet.  We can’t say enough about these people, their food, their kindness.  We felt a bit like family for a couple days, and what more could we ask for.  Still, they gave it anyway.  If you are every planning on visiting Thailand and need a little island to escape the tourists and learn where the locals really vacation, go to Ko Sichang, look up Pan and David, and let them care for you for a couple days.  You can learn more at their website:  www.ko-sichang.com.  They are also featured in a couple of the Thailand Lonely Planet guides, and rightfully so.

We’ll miss you and your family, Pan and David, and hopefully we’ll cross paths again soon!
After a couple days of motorbiking around the island (don’t worry, unlike the locals we were careful to wear helmets and actually obey the traffic laws) we rented a kayak and paddled a few miles over to a little teeny island called Bat.  Nothing like kayaking across the Gulf of Thailand to camp on what really felt like our own private beach.  Again, don’t worry, we wore life jackets and a number of people were aware of where we were going.  When we arrived we were greeted by the one family (5 people) that lived there.  They operate little bungalows on the beach, and they also allow camping which we did for only 120 baht a night.  They cook just about anything you can imagine and nothing was less than superbly delicious.  Not to mention, once again as seems to be typical of the Thai people, their kindness and care was wonderful. They always had questions of do you have water, are you hungry, do you need directions around the island, etc.  All in incredibly broken English so it took a lot of charades, but you get the point.  As was the case in Ko Sichang, we felt like family on Bat Island.

Family on Bat Island Kayaking to the Island Kevin relaxing under the bat island sunset one of the many, many dogs on bat island

We mostly spent the time relaxing on the beach, watching the sun set, building a camp fire to help keep the bugs away.  Also, watching lighting off in the distance across the gulf at night was quite breathtaking.  We were so relaxed we felt half asleep the whole time, but always with a slight grin on our faces.
Oh, and there was a goat we named Harrold.  Not 2 goats, or 3 or 4, but just one.  No one knows how he got there but the dogs (have I mentioned there are dogs roaming the streets everywhere?) seemed to have adopted him.  He slept outside our tent the first night and didn’t really much bother us.  I think he just liked the company.
Speaking of our tent – OUR GEAR RULES!  Thank God we put the time in to buying all the right little stuff.  Our water filter, our Mountain Hardwear Tent, our Gregory packs, everything has been perfect.  We have been kept dry and safe, and can access clean and safe water everywhere we go.  Plus with all our nifty little gadgets we can actually carry everything around without killing ourselves.  When we have some more time I’ll write some reviews for all of you gear heads out there (Hi Jimmy!).
Our set up on Bat Island
The ride on the “ferry” back to the mainland was a bit nerve wracking.  The boat was constructed of rotting slats of wood held together by what must have been Chinese chewing gum.  We thought the creaking and tilting was pretty bad until a HUGE storm blew up right after we left port.  There was lightning all around, the wind was strong, the rain intense.  The boat operatpr couldn’t see where he was going so he sent one of his worker dudes (who had the most incredible mullet) up to the front with an umbrella to spot land.  Wonderful.  I was incredibly nervous, and it didn’t help that David drank 12 gallons of water before we left so he had to pee really, really, badly. All the locals on the boat didn’t seem to mind that we were clearly about to die, so I just kept telling myself, “When in Rome, don’t panic.” I’ve never felt so good to put my feet back on solid ground when we pulled in to that port.
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We got back to the mainland last night, here in Si Racha.  Because it’s not a major tourist area Si Racha is super cheap so we are going to stick around for a day or two and rest (kayaking and camping for 3 days in 90 degree weather is quite exausting).  Next, it’s up North to visit some killer ruins and beautiful country side.  We are finally updating the itinerary so that info is actually real now.  Yay!
Much Love,
Kevin and David
Lessons Learned:
1 – No matter where you go you can always find a 711 – ALWAYS.  They literally have them on every block here.
2 – When you are 6 ft 1 and white, learn to do 2 things: a) ignore the stares, and b) DUCK!
3 – you can never, EVER, have enough deet OR sun screen
4 – When struggling to communicate without using English, never underestimate the power of a smile

Check out the photos of Ko Si Chang:

KohSiChang

Check out the photos of Camping @ Bat Island:
KohSiChang

Disaster House

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So we left Bangkok last Saturday to head South to Si Racha – home to the famous Si Racha “rooster sauce” and, more importantly to us, the main port to catch a ferry over to Ko Sichang.  It should have taken about 4 hours total to get to the actual island.

Disaster House

Evidently in Bangkok they have these Tourist Information Centers that really aren’t information centers at all.  We walked in to one with a simple question – which bus do we take to the main bus terminal so we can catch a bus to Si Racha?  The answer – we don’t know, which is a complete lie.  See, the only thing these “information centers” do is try to sell you ridiculously expensive tourist packages to wherever it is you want to go.  Plus, they literally lie to you (well, to westerners, anyway).  They actually told us that no one is allowed to go to the National Parks except for them, so you HAVE to buy THEIR packages.  After telling us they have ‘never heard of’ Si Racha, they tried to sell us some weird package to some weird beach that catered to young, dumb Americans.  The only real reason they have never heard of Si Racha and the islands of Ko Sichang is because western tourist don’t go there, so there isn’t anything to sell.

We may be young, and kinda dumb, but we weren’t born yesterday.

Anyway, because they were no help, and because when we tried to ask others which bus to take they answered with ‘buy these shoes’ we ended up on the wrong bus not once, not twice, but three times.  Not only that, somewhere in there we had to take a taxi because we ended up at the wrong terminal.  Worse, it’s still monsoon season here in the south and we got caught in a flood.  The taxi got stuck, and we had to get out and wade through nearly knee-high polluted water and walk the rest of the way.  You can see in the picture above how exhausted we were, and I believe it was at this point we nearly hated each other.

Lessons learned:
1 – The tourist information centers are full of sh!t, even though the Lonely Planet guide says otherwise (Sorry, LP – we really love you but this time you were dead wrong)
2 – Everything floods every time it rains.  Bring a rain poncho, or better yet, a canoe.
3 – When your tired, hungry, and late, keep your mouth shut if you have nothing nice to say to your partner.  It’s not their fault, and they are all you have.

Check out the bangkok photos:

Bangkok

Please, Do Not Wash Your Feet In This Sink

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We have arrived!  We landed around 12:30 local time yesterday at Bangkok International and jumped a bus to Khao San, the primary area that backpackers tend to stay and hang out when they pass through.  It’s young people and old people from all over the world staring wide-eyed at the street markets (which are everywhere).  You can find anything your heart desires here, and then some, for really, really cheap.

It’s incredibly hot.  INCREDIBLY HOT.  We are now showering an average of 3 times a day and, to be honest, we smell like my father’s garden after laying down a fresh batch of cow manure.  Not to worry though, because all the strange things being sold in the streets everywher smell just as strong so I don’t think anyone notices.  It’s amazing how clean the Thai people are!  We are walking around in shorts and a tee shirt, DRIPPING sweat, and they are comfortable and dry in long slacks and long sleeve shirts.  How do they do it?

A note on long slacks:  Should you visit a wat (temple) you must not come wearing shorts.  We brought pants with us to change in to, which was fine, until we realized the ‘changing room’ was pretty much in front of whomever happened to be strolling by to puchase a ticket, including women who were cleaning the ‘changing room.’  As modest as the thai folks supposedly are, they sure don’t mind two grown american men changing pants right there for the world to see.

So as most of you know we are on a very, very tight budget.  What is so exciting though is how much we have already done and seen for so little.  We met a tuk tuk driver today who took us around to a bunch of differnt wats and places of interest.  We were with him for hours and at the end of the day he charged us 20 baht (a little under a dollar).  Usually it would have been 40, but he cut us a deal – I think because he thought David was cute.

Our guest house is called the New Joe (people love naming their business around here after American male names).  They don’t really have hotels here. Guest houses are more like a resturaunt/shop/cafe/ with rooms on top.  You can get them for as little as 5 dollars a night, but we suggest going for the 350 baht (10 dollars) range so you can have a fan and your own bathroom.  It’s not much, but somehow it’s really perfect.

We had this really amazing soup from this woman near our guesthouse -  30 baht a bowl, or a dollar a person.  Deliscious, and it was especially perfect having hot soup after a nasty storm rolled through while we were on the tuk  tuk – we were soaked to the bone.

The most expensive thing we did today was visit the Royal Golden Palace.  It cost 350 baht (as much as our room costs for one night!), but it is home to all of Thailands former kings and, we aren’t sure because things were getting lost in translation, but it seems the current King lives there too.  Evidently he is the longest currently reigning monach in world.  He’s been reigning longer than even queen E over there in England – crazy, right?  The place was unreal.  Solid gold everywhere and I don’t even know what to say.  Just, beautiful and and insane.  One thing to note here as well:  When you are in the bathrooms scattered throughout the King’s palace grounds, temples, etc, please do not wash your feet in the sink as indicated by the signs.

Tonight we are going to a firework show near the department of defense building.  It seems today is a festival possibly for the department of defense, possibly for budha, or possible for nothing really.  It seems there is always some sort of reason for a massive party with cheap food, dancing women, and things being set fire.  What more could one ask for?

Take a look at the photos.  We promise to document more, and better – it’s just been a crazy few days and we already had a dead battery incident.  We’re getting there, promise.  Also – don’t pick on me for my poor spelling and grammar.  I am still jet lagged, afterall.

Onwards to Ko Si Chang, beach breezes and all.

Much Love,

Kevin and David

Toothpicks in Hong Kong

Our flight miraculously left on time out of sfo despite that massive storm on the coast. 17 hours, but it ended up actually not being so bad. It was one of the smoothest flights I have ever experienced really. Between the breathing exercises I have been practicing, davids support, and those little happy pills my doc gave me, it seems I have just conquered my fear of flying (or can at least deal with it now). For me this is just huge – so pumped. I even SLEPT for awhile.

If anyone ever wants to head over this way, I recommend Cathay pacific any day. The extra hundred bucks we spent (instead of the cheaper china air) was so worth it. Great seats, personal tv’s with killer choices, and the staff seriously treated us like we were at a hotel. The food didn’t make us puke – so that’s something as well.

Budget items for the day:
The tix cost 620 bucks a piece, which we paid for many months ago.
Two sodas at the airport 6 bucks. Too much, but it’s an sipper afterall…

First lost in translation:
David asked a desk attendant for a paperclip – he recieved a styrofoam cup. He tried again, recieved a toothpick, and decided to cut his losses and make it work.

In about an hour we leave for Bangkok where god knows things will get interesting. Tonight if we aren’t dying from exauation well post another update about that next leg of the journey.

Thanks to Matthew for the incredible fairwell dinner, and thanks to the newlyweds Jen and Jimmy for driving us to the airport – it was a fitting so long. We love and miss you guys already!!

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